Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Pasta vs. pasta: Orecchiette with broccolini




These recipes brings to mind the question of why some seemingly similar recipes work and some fail. The top recipe works; the bottom one was a dud despite the ingredient list it had going for it.

Orecchiette with broccolini
Adapted from“Two Fat Ladies: Obsessions” by Jennifer Paterson and Clarissa Dickson Wright. The book is divided into chapters given over to various obsessions, from cardoons to eels. This came from the comparatively mundane category of pasta.

Ingredients
½ cup olive oil, divided
2 minced garlic cloves, divided
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 ounces canned anchovies
1 28-ounce can Italian peeled tomatoes
2 bunches of broccolini
1 pound orecchiette pasta
1 small onion, diced
¼ cup golden raisins plumped in 2 tablespoons white wine
1/3 cup pine nuts
½ cup shaved Parmesan cheese for garnish, optional

Method
Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in large skillet over medium low heat. Add 1 clove of minced garlic and red pepper flakes. Heat until fragrant. Stir in anchovies and mash up into the oil. Add tomatoes, a generous pinch of salt and cook over medium heat, allowing sauce to reduce while you prepare the rest of the dish.

Heat a large pot of water to a boil. Add a tablespoon of salt and the broccolini. Cook until tender crisp, about 6 minutes depending on the thickness of your broccolini. Remove broccolini to a cutting board and chop into 1-inch pieces.

Bring water back to a boil and add orecchiette. Cook until al dente and then drain.

In another large skillet, heat remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil. Add onion and cook until translucent. Add remaining garlic clove and cook 1 minute. Add cooked broccolini, raisins and their liquid and pine nuts. Sprinkle with salt. Cook about 2 more minutes over medium heat. Gently stir into tomato mixture.

Stir pasta into tomato-broccolini mixture. (Or alternatively, put a bit of pasta in the bottom of the serving dish, then add some of the sauce and alternate layers. This is what the recipe called for, and I tried it that way, but decided I prefer it mixed together because then more of the sauce nestles in the little pasta pillows.) Garnish with Parmesan shavings.

Rating: Dave says: This is my new favorite way to eat broccoli. I wouldn’t go that far, but the sauce has some nice complexity of flavors.

 

Pasta shells with broccoli
Adapted from “Low Fat,” a Barnes and Noble book by Martina Solter and Kathrin Ullerich

Ingredients
5 cups orecchiette
1¼ pounds broccoli, cut into small florets
4 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon lemon zest
4 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup grated Parmesan

Method
Heat a large pot of water to a boil. Add some salt and broccoli and cook about 4 minutes. Remove broccoli from water and drain. Bring water back to a boil and cook orecchiette until al dente.

Meanwhile, combine garlic, red pepper flakes, lemon zest and olive oil in a food processor. Whir until emulsified. Pour mixture into a skillet and heat through. Simmer on low heat until pasta is done. Drain pasta, reserving liquid.

Toss pasta with flavored oil and broccoli. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in most of Parmesan and serve garnished with the rest.

Rating: Not a repeater. I didn’t even bother blogging about it when I tried in January because I didn’t want to perhaps mislead someone into wasting their time cooking it.

Both are pasta dishes with broccoli, garlic and red pepper flakes. So, why is one so much better than the rest? Admittedly, the one is from a cookbook entitled “Low Fat,” which can sometimes translate into low flavor. And there is more olive oil and fatty pine nuts in the first recipe. Anchovies aren’t always my favorite, while I love lemon, so you’d think the second dish would have the edge there, but it didn’t seem to tip things in its favor. So what gives? I’m inclined to think it was the tomatoes, which helped bind the first dish together and coated the pasta nicely, plus the overall greater depth of flavors from a longer ingredient list.

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