Saturday, January 1, 2022

Leek and potato soup, Mexican potato soup, pickle potato soup, bacon roasted potato chowder

 


One potato, two potato, three potato, four — potato soups, that is.

In October and November, I'm deep into soup-making mode to preserve produce ahead of winter. Then there's the holiday plunge into baking that interrupts that phase, during which I make pretty good inroads into the freezer soup supply. After the holidays, the race is on to use up all the potatoes and squash we bought at the farmers market in fall and store on an orchard rack in the basement. Even in an unheated Minnesota basement they won't last forever. There are starting to be buds on some of the potatoes, so soup's on.

Leek and potato soup
Adapted from “365 Great 20-Minute Recipes” by Beverly Cox

Ingredients

2 tablespoons butter
3 medium leeks, rinsed
3½ cup broth
1½ cup water or potato cooking water
3 cups mashed potatoes
2 cups half and half
⅛ teaspoon nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon pepper

Method

Heat butter in a large saucepan over medium low heat and cook leeks until softened. Add broth, water and mashed potatoes, whisking to break up potato clumps. Cover and simmer until potatoes are smooth. Stir in cream, nutmeg and pepper and heat through. Serves 6 reliably.
 
Rating: Perfectly lovely use of leftover mashed potatoes, although the original recipe called for a package of frozen mashed potatoes, which I confess I had not been aware existed. I deliberately made extra potatoes the last time I mashed some so I'd have them for this recipe. My only quibble: Since the leeks are the only thing in the recipe that isn't perfectly creamy, they kind of seem almost chewy even though they were quite soft. I suspect it's just a texture contrast thing  Flavorwise it's quite nice. If I was making this for company I would probably reserve a few pale green leeks to sauté for a garnish just to add a spot of color.


Mexican potato soup

From Midwest Living magazine


Ingredients
¼ pounds russet potatoes, peeled and chopped
3 cups chicken broth
½ cup chopped onion
6 ounces uncooked chorizo sausage
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
½ cup milk
1 (4-ounce) can green chilies
1 teaspoon ground chipotle pepper
¼ teaspoon black pepper
2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese, divided
Sliced green onions

Method
In a large pot, combine potatoes, broth and onion. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cover and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

In a skillet, cook chorizo over medium heat until browned and cooked through. Set aside and drain on paper towels.

Once potato mixture has cooled slightly, puree until smooth in a blender or food processor (or use an immersion blender in the pot). Return pureed mixture to the pop. Stir in yogurt, milk, green chilies, chipotle pepper and black pepper. Heat over medium heat. Stir in 1½ cups of the cheese until melted.

Serve topped with remaining cheese, chorizo and green onions.

Rating: Dave said it was like really thin mashed potatoes, but in a good way. He was not wrong. This is a very thick soup, and very tasty. Don't fear the heat; those potatoes need a bit of perking up, and that does the job nicely without being obtrusive. For those who avoid meat, the chorizo could certainly be skipped without missing it.

 


Polish pickle and potato soup

Adapted from a recipe by Pam Knutson of the erstwhile Birdsong Soups as submitted to the Star Tribune Taste section. She says you can either leave the vegetables and pickles in chunks or puree them. I opted to leave them in chunks, but I could see it working either way.

Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter
Canola oil
2 onions, diced
3 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 cups broth
4 large red or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into small chunks
1½ cups chopped dill pickles, plus reserved pickle juice, divided (Knutson calls for 3 cups here, for those feeling bold)
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons flour
Fresh dill for garnish

Method
In large pot, melt butter with a splash of canola oil over medium-low heat. Add onions and cook until soft (you’re not trying to brown these). Add carrots and garlic and cook about 15 to 20 minutes. Add stock and potatoes. Bring mixture to a boil and then reduce heat to medium low and cook until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Add pickles and cook another 10 minutes.

Stir sour cream and flour together and then stir into soup. Cook a few minutes until the flour is cooked and mixture is slightly thickened. Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and reserved pickle juice. Serve topped with chopped fresh dill garnish. Serves 6 amply.

Rating: I figured this soup would be either bizarrely good or terribly wrong. I had an unopened jar of pickles that escaped my attention at the back of a cabinet that were certainly still edible, but no longer perfectly crisp, so I decided to give the soup a try to use them up. This soup is actively not bad flavorwise, although I wish I had had orange carrots on hand instead of yellow to add a bit more color. I only had so many pickles to use, so I only used half what was called for, and I’m OK with that decision. I did use the reserved pickle juice, and since this particular jar of dills had some red peppers for heat, it worked surprisingly well. I don’t know if I would set out to make it with a fresh jar of perfectly good pickles, but I can actually recommend this recipe as a great way to use up pickles in need of assistance. No, really.


 

Bacon roasted potato chowder
This soup is inspired by the Savory Bacon Potato Chowder on Land O'Lakes site (although cream of anything soup is not on the pantry shelf), Creamy Potato Chowder With Bacon on the Spruce Eats and this standby recipe for a
roasted garlic variety.

But mostly it was inspired by the weather. It was 11-effing-below when we got up this morning, and minus 30 windchill. Happy New Year in Minnesota. When you don't even see dog walkers out and about, you know it's cold. So we decided to forgo any trips to the store and just cook what was in the house. This was the reasonably tasty result.

Ingredients
2 pounds small red-skinned potatoes
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 strips applewood smoked bacon, chopped fine
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tablespoons flour
7 cups broth
2 ears' worth of frozen corn, about 1
½ cups
2 cups whipping cream
½ cup sour cream
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon spice blend*

Method
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Peel a quarter of the potatoes but leave the rest unpeeled. Chop into bite-size pieces. On a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle them with the olive oil, rosemary, salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Toss to coat. Bake for 20 minutes or until just starting to brown; you don't want these too crispy. Smash some or all of the peeled potatoes; this will make the chowder creamier.

Meanwhile, cook bacon in a large heavy pot over medium heat until it renders its fat. Add onion and cook over medium low heat until onion is soft. Stir in flour and cook and stir for two minutes. Add about a cup of the broth and stir to incorporate the flour and to deglaze the bottom of the pan.

Add remaining broth, all the potatoes, corn, cream, sour cream, onion powder and spice blend. Cook about 20 minutes to heat through and allow the flavors to blend. Adjust seasoning to taste as needed with salt and pepper. Serves 8 easily.

Rating: Not bad for a what's in the house soup. Not bad at all. I suspect the leftovers will be even better, as it strikes me as one of those even better the next day soups. I don't happen to like a super thick chowder, but if you do, you'd want to up the flour component to at least 3 tablespoons.

Definitely better than heading to the store. The only trip outside was to take all those potato peels to the compost bin and to brush the dusting of snow from the sidewalks.

*I used Forward spice blend because it's what I had in the house. I suspect Old Bay seasoning would be appropriate here, being a logical chowder ingredient. Forward is a mix of extra bold black pepper, onion, paprika, garlic, turmeric, spice extractives (including oleoresin of celery, rosemary, black pepper, thyme, basil and paprika). In other words, it's one of the free things that shows up in your Penzey's checkout cart depending on how much you order and you figure you'll use it in scrambled eggs.





Saturday, December 25, 2021

Overnight cranberry eggnog coffee cake

 


Overnight coffee cakes are the best way to start a Christmas morning. Then fire up "Let's Ditch Christmas" to get in the mood to open presents. Lazy Christmases are the best.

Overnight Cranberry-Eggnog Coffee Cake
Adapted from a Taste of Home recipe submitted by Lisa Varner of El Paso, Texas, who was inspired to use up leftover holiday ingredients.

Ingredients
½ cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 cup eggnog
1 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
2½ cups flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
Zest of 1 orange
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup dried cranberries

Streusel ingredients:
⅔ cup sugar
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter, softened
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ cup chopped pecans

Glaze
½ cup powdered sugar
1 tablespoon eggnog

Method
Cream butter and 1 cup sugar until light and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. In a separate bowl, combine eggnog, sour cream and vanilla. In another bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, orange zest, baking soda and salt. Add eggnog mixture and dry mixture to the butter-sugar mixture, alternating between the two. Stir in cranberries. Spread mixture into a greased 9- by 13-inch pan.

Combine ⅔ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, 2 tablespoons butter  and cinnamon in a small bowl. Stir in pecans. Sprinkle mixture over cake batter in pan. Cover and refrigerate until ready to bake.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Set pan out of the refrigerator while it heats up. Bake 35-40 minutes until it passed the toothpick test.

For glaze, combine powdered sugar and eggnog. Drizzle over slightly cooled cake and serve warm.

Rating: This makes a very soft, moist coffee cake. It's not super looky, since the cranberries don't show up on the top of the cake, but no one will mind. And you didn't have to scurry around in the morning to get it ready, plus the prep dishes are already done. You did do the dishes the night before, right? Best Christmas present to future self is a clean kitchen counter. Until they invent those magic elves.



Tuesday, December 21, 2021

Happy Solstice

 

We finally got the fireplace cleaned so we aren't too paranoid to use it. Time to light a fire against the darkness on this long dark day. And to open a bottle of Surly Darkness to toast to the approaching light. May there be brighter days ahead for all.

But sadness: I shipped all the cookies away. Only powdered sugar crumb prints left:


Friday, November 12, 2021

Mini pumpkin cheesecakes with maple whipped cream


 

Remember when Posh Spice drew more Google searches than pumpkin spice? Yes, this recipe involves pumpkin, and it involves spices. But I assure you, no coffee drinks were adulterated in the process.

 Mini pumpkin cheesecakes with maple whipped cream

Adapted from a recipe posted to the former recipezaar.com many years ago by Michele7. A search of the new food.com site does not turn up the identical recipe, although it does have another version that also purports to be the Cheesecake Factory version, as this one did. The two were noticeably different, both from each other, and from several other recipes alleged to be a copy of the restaurant’s version. I can’t weigh in on that, having never been to a Cheesecake Factory. 

The original recipe was for a full-size cheesecake that served 8. It would make 36 mini cheesecakes using a mini cheesecake pan. While I’ve mixed up the whole recipe and then baked it in three stages in the mini pan, that’s tedious, and generally speaking I don’t need 36 cheesecakes until it’s a big party. So this version is approximately a third of the original, designed to make one batch of 12. If you understandably don’t have a mini cheesecake pan (although they are super fun and make slick work of removing the cakelets), you could try it in muffin tins. I got my pan from King Arthur, but they don't seem to carry it any more. It is still available from Amazon, however.

 Ingredients
1 cup graham cracker crumbs
3 tablespoons butter, melted
⅓ cup plus 2 teaspoon sugar, divided
1 (8-ounce package) cream cheese, softened
½ teaspoon vanilla
⅓ cup canned pumpkin puree
1 egg
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon allspice
Maple whipped cream (see recipe)

Method
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix cracker crumbs, melted butter and  2 teaspoons sugar in a medium-size bowl. Divide mixture among mini cheesecake pans. Tamp down crumb mixture to flatten. (Love my tart tamper I got from Mom for this purpose!) Place a layer of tinfoil under the pan and place in the oven, unless you really enjoy cleaning up oozed butter from your oven floor. Bake for 5 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside to cool while you prepare the filling.

Combine cream cheese, vanilla and 1/3 cup sugar in a large mixing bowl. Beat until smooth. Add pumpkin, egg, cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice and beat until smooth. Divide mixture evenly on top of cracker crusts, using about 2 tablespoons per cheesecake.

Bake for 20 minutes or until just set.  Set pan on a wire rack to cool at least 30 minutes. Run a butter knife around the cakes to carefully loosen them. Lift out and place on a serving plate (or storage box if you’re chilling them to serve later). These gain more structural integrity as they cool, so the tops are less likely to separate from the crust if you give them some chilling time before serving. The tops will sink slightly in the middle as they cool, but a garnish of whipped cream covers that nicely. Serves 12.

Rating: These are wonderfully light, not heavy like pumpkin pie or dense like some baked cheesecakes. Every time I take them to an event, they go over quite well, because, well, they’re cute, super small  and have a nice spice profile.

Maple whipped cream
From Berlyskitchen.com. This makes way more than you’d need for garnishing 12 mini cheesecakes, but as she points out, it can work for serving on pancakes, French toast, hot drinks or cupcakes, and it keeps fairly well made in advance without separating.

Ingredients
1 cup whipped cream
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup
½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Method
Mix at low speed until foamy. Then increase speed to medium and beat until stiff peaks form.

 

 

 

Monday, November 8, 2021

Tiny herb spiral bread

 


They get you hooked young, and then you’ve got a lifetime habit. At least if you were in 4-H many moons ago where they distributed their alluring wares, pushing use of their product through glossy promotional materials distributed free to susceptible – and hungry – young minds.

I see you can now buy one of those Fleischmann’s yeast promotional cookbooks for $20 on Etsy, labeled as vintage. (Perhaps I’ll start referring to myself as vintage.) That one looks in much better shape than my well-used version with the cover in tatters.

This booklet is the source of many go-to recipes that date to the time when I was still a teenager astounding my parents with their luck as they stuffed their mouths with caraway rye rolls, the second yeast bread product I’d made in a day. I guess there were worse obsessions to have at that age than to produce excellent carriers for butter.

Despite the fact that I’ve owned this booklet for many years and made tons of tasty treats, somehow I had always meant to get around to this recipe and hadn’t. With a patio filled with herbs that I just had to bring inside for the season, this seemed as good a time as any to try it.

It called for just chives and parsley, but that might be because few cooks had access to a variety of fresh herbs when this book first came out. At any rate, I made it with half of the herbs being a mix of parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme, so thus, Simon and Garfunkel bread. (Yes, I am vintage, but it was a good year.)

Tiny herb loaves
Adapted from “Fleishmann’s Bake-it-easy Yeast Book.”
Note: If your kitchen doesn’t have a naturally warm place (a “cold” gas oven with just the pilot light on is perfect), turn on your electric oven to the lowest setting before you start assembling the dough and turn it off the minute it comes up to temperature. By the time you get the dough assembled it will have cooled down to warm instead of hot. Another trick: Heat water to boiling in a microwave right before you put the bowl of rising dough in. It will cool down, of course, but the initial warmth gets the dough off to the good start it needs and it’s a draft-free location. Otherwise, add more time to each estimated rising time to make up for the fact that it’s going to take longer.

Ingredients
½ cup milk
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
6 tablespoons butter, divided
1½ cups warm water (105 to 115, it should pass the baby bottle test on your wrist)
A scant tablespoon active dry yeast (1 package for those who don’t buy in bulk)
5½ to 6½ cups flour
1 cup chopped  fresh chives
1 cup chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme or whatever suits your fancy

Method
Scald milk. Stir in sugar, salt and 3 tablespoons butter. Cool to lukewarm.

Pour the warm water into a large bowl. Sprinkle in yeast and stir to dissolve. Let sit while the milk mixture cools.

Add lukewarm milk mixture and 3 cups flour. Beat until smooth. Stir in enough additional flour a half cup at a time until it’s formed a stiff dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead 8 to 10 minutes until smooth and elastic.

Place dough in a greased bowl, cover loosely and let rise in a warm place until double in bulk, about an hour. Punch dough down, cover and let rest for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, chop up herbs and melt remaining 3 tablespoons of butter.

Divide dough into 6 parts. Roll each part on a lightly floured board into an 8- by 12-inch rectangle. Brush with butter and sprinkle with about ⅓ cup herbs. Roll up tightly to form 12-inch loaves, pinching ends to seal. Place on a greased half sheet pan or two smaller pans if you don’t have one or can’t fit a half sheet in your oven. Repeat with remaining dough. Cover loaves loosely and place in a warm place to rise until doubled, about an hour.

Preheat oven to 375. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until done.

Rating: These are fun. Good carriers for butter (what yeast bread isn’t?) and they look nice on a cheese board array.I could see adding garlic and/or grated Parmesan if you wanted something more savory, but they don't really require it.

Make ahead? I initially baked off 5 of the shaped 6 dough rolls, putting one in the freezer before it had risen, testing to see if that was a viable make-ahead option. I would label it as not a success; that mini loaf is now destined to be a tasty addition to a future strata. But freezing some of the baked loaves, thawing them at room temperature and then popping them in the oven briefly to warm them before serving worked perfectly fine.