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| Cream of spinach soup |
When I signed up for a buyout at work, everyone seemed to wonder what magnificent plans I had. My internal response was something like "Plans? I'm required to have plans??) My external response was that making a big vat of soup and curling up under a mound of covers with a good book sounded like a great winter break to me.
But first came Christmas and New Year's cooking/baking hoopla, and I found myself in January with no prepared soups or finished books to my credit and somehow not the inertia to get started on either front. So to get out of my rut, I turned to three women with bona fide credentials, all three of them with an ode to soup cookbook under their belt: Barbara Kafka, Mollie Katzen and Betty Rosbottom.
So now my refrigerator is stuffed with soups to weave into the weekly menu, and I've been making a slight dent in the stack of books at long last, although now punctuated by breaks for doomscrolliing. They may not all be chicken soups, but they're still good for the soul, and we need that right now. I love my adopted city of Minneapolis, and it needs all the soup and good will it can get. It has been supremely weird to not at least be on the sidelines at work during this crisis. and I wish my former coworkers all the vibes in their work to share truth. Covering a persistent, pervasive, mutable story is a sort of journalistic death march where the ground heaves beneath you while you get insufficient rest and still debate and refine every word choice. Wishing them all the soups.
Cream of spinach soup
Adapted from Mollie Katzen’s “Soups.” Serves 6 to 8 as a
soup plate size serving.
Ingredients
1 large onion, chopped
2 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped
3 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
10-16 ounces of fresh spinach leaves, stems trimmed (I used 2 5-ounce boxes)
5 medium garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1½ cups hot milk
Pinch of white pepper
Pinch of nutmeg
Method
Place onion, potatoes and salt in a large pot. Add water and
bring to a simmer, cooking covered until potatoes are tender. Add spinach and
garlic and set aside until cool enough to puree the mixture.
Meanwhile, melt butter in a medium saucepan. Stir in flour
and cook a minute. Slowly add milk, whisking as you go. Cook and stir over low
heat until mixture is smooth and slightly thickened. It makes a thin white
sauce. Stir into pureed vegetable
mixture and heat through before serving.(Alternatively, you can skip the
butter and flour step and just stir the hot milk directly into the soup if you
want to make it gluten-free.)
Rating: This makes a dandy soup I would make again. Tasty, and a bright, vibrant green. If you were looking for a garnish, maybe a dollop of savory whipped cream would do. It's reminiscent of this heavenly spinach vichyssoise recipe, but heavier on the spinach than the potato. I just used a stick blender, but if I was serving this for company, I'd recommend using a blender or food processor to get a finer texture.
I'm not sure why cabbage gets top billing in this recipe title since zucchini provides the largest share.
Cabbage-dill potage
From Barbara Kafka's "Soup: A Way of Life," a truly lovely title. Serves 6 to 8 depending on preferred serving size.
Note: The recipe calls for using a zucchini base that you have made ahead in summer during its abundance and stashed in the freezer to pull out one of several soup recipes in the book that utilize it, but you can also just make it at the same time as the soup. Kafka calls for a food mill as the first choice for processing the vegetation, but I don't have one so I stuck with the food processor.
Ingredients
4 medium zucchini
1 tablespoon butter
½ pound mashing potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks (about two medium potatoes)
Half a small cabbage, chopped small, about 2 cups
2 large leeks, whites and 1-inch of pale green parts, cleaned and cut into ½-inch pieces
4 cups water
2 tablespoons chopped dill, plus more for optional garnish
Method
Peel zucchini and slice into quarters lengthwise, then ½-inch chunks. Heat butter over low heat in a large saucepan. Toss zucchini with butter, cover and simmer for 45 minutes. At this point you can puree the mixture and freezer it until ready to use, or proceed with the recipe.
Combine potatoes, cabbage, leeks and 4 cups water in a large pot. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, covered. Transfer cooked vegetables to a food processor to puree and then return to liquid in pot along with zucchini puree. If, like me, you're making it all at once, I just added the cooked, chopped zucchini to the soup pot and used a stick blender to mix the entire lot at once.
Add chopped dill and salt and pepper to taste. (The original recipe called for 5 teaspoons, but I found 3 teaspoons to be a great plenty.) Drizzle with some olive oil if desired and garnish with extra dill.
Rating: Decent soup, flavorwise. Rather thick, but that's not a horrible thing in a soup in January by any means. Like many soups, the flavor improves with time. The zucchini base approach has merit worth revisiting in summer. My version of that is to chop up a zucchini with whatever else is in season and roast them, then freeze 3 to 4 cups of the mixture to add later to a frittata or to mix with beans, broth and pesto for a soup.
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| Forgot to put on the garnish when I was photographing the leftovers so you'll just have to imagine that bit. |
Colorado chicken soup with black beans, corn and pepitas
From
"Soup Nights" by Betty Rosbottom. Serves 8 heartily as main dish servings.
Note: Choose the biggest pot you've got for this one. I opted for a pretty big pot, but my Le Creuset #32 Dutch oven (aka Mega Blue) was barely big enough to contain all of it so I wished I'd chosen the one we refer to as Bigger than Blue.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
⅔ cup chopped celery
½ cup diced carrots
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1½ teaspoons dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika
6 cups chicken broth
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes and their juice
1 4-ounce can green chilis
4 cups shredded cooked chicken
2 cups fresh corn kernels, or frozen and thawed
½ cup roasted pepitas, optional
½ cilantro leaves
Method
In really large pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, celery, carrots and garlic and cook until just starting to soften. Add oregano, cumin and paprika and cook for about a minute. Add broth, tomatoes and juices and green chilis. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Add chicken and corn and heat through.
Optional garnish: Combine pepitas and cilantro in a food processor and use as soup topping. Or just garnish with chopped cilantro.
Rating: If I were to make this soup again, I'd either cut the amount of chicken in half or leave it out altogether. Dave, of course, was fine with the abundance of chicken involved since it made it very filling, but for me, the soup had an odd disconnect between the super thick chicken and beans and the thinness of the broth portion of the soup. I found that when I took bites that didn't have any chicken in it I liked it more, so I think it would make a not bad vegetable bean soup. I would opt for just using chopped cilantro as a garnish next time or else add oil to the pepitas and cilantro to make a pesto; as it is, it didn't really work for me as a garnish. The cilantro flavor is a nice addition, but if you're one of those who finds that off-putting, chopped parsley would do. It is a comparatively fast fix and pantry/freezer friendly, so it has that in its favor.
Soup's on. Stay warm, stay whatever safe looks like to you and carry on.
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