Cauliflower vichyssoise

 

We are such April fools to live here. Yesterday's relentless rains gave way overnight to inch-an-hour snowfall. This morning when I looked out the window there was a tree blocking the view that usually isn't there, because all the arborvitae genuflected to the snow gods. Still waiting for enough of the 8.5 inches of snow to release from the trees to see how much of the crabapple is left. I suspect it may have lost half its height to snapped branches. It wouldn't seem so cruel if we hadn't lost a major chunk of our yard glaciers over the past week.

But hey, we have power, which many in the metro do not, and enough food to not have to venture out to the grocery store ourselves, and enough energy to shovel and push out people who got stuck attempting to do so.

This recipe was designed to be served cold, and would be tasty that way. But after hefting heavy snow that absolutely did not want to lose its grip on the shovel, something warm seemed called for.

Leviton’s cauliflower vichyssoise
Adapted from Food & Wine 2001 Cookbook, a recipe by chef Michael Leviton, then of Boston’s Lumière. The original recipe called for shucked Wellfleet oysters and their liquid, with an optional caviar garnish. I’m sure that would be spiffy.

Ingredients
2 tablespoons butter
2 large leeks, washed, white and green parts only, thinly sliced
1 large cauliflower, cut into large florets
6 cups water
½ cup crème fraiche
Salt and ground white pepper
2 tablespoons chopped cucumber
2 tablespoons chopped chives
1 tablespoon minced shallots
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon seasoned rice wine vinegar

Method
In a large sauce pan, heat butter. Cook leeks over low heat until tender. Add cauliflower and water and bring to a simmer. Cook until cauliflower is soft, about 35 minutes. Stir in crème fraiche and season with salt and white pepper. When soup has cooled slightly, puree mixture.

If serving chilled, chill soup thoroughly at this point. When ready to serve, combine cucumber, chives, shallots, olive oil and rice wine vinegar in a small bowl. Serve soup garnished with dollops of the cucumber mixture. If serving warm, heat through and top with chopped chives.

Rating: Turns out that any starchy vegetable cooked with leeks sauteed in butter and augmented by a dairy product and then pureed tastes exactly like vichyssoise. So if you're looking for a slightly lower carb veggie, this is one place you can passably get away with it. Leeks, butter, tangy creaminess? What's not to like? It's an extremely simple recipe to make, and works warm or chilled. I feel like that topping worked better in the cold version (where it seemed a nice touch of that mythical season known as spring) and preferred a simple chive garnish when served warm.Serves 6 first-course portions.

Ordinarily, there's a sidewalk visible where those evergreens are. No fair.