Green pasta with leeks and pancetta

At least something around here is green, even if it’s the pasta and the mountain of leeks that go into this tasty dish. This is not the low-cal show: This recipe is larded up with pancetta, butter and cream. (The latter of which I cut in half from what was originally called for; if you really want to sin and have a really creamy pasta, go for a full cup, but honestly this dish feels sinfully tasty enough without it, and this way it surprisingly doesn’t feel heavy.)

Tagliarini Verdi al Guanciale

Adapted from “Beard on Pasta,” a delightful book filled with recipes from the ever-reliable James Beard and whimsical illustrations by Karl W. Stuecklen. It’s worth it just for the cover illustration of Beard tossing some pasta with an intent, somewhat maniacal look to his eyes. See the full original recipe here on the Beard site.

Dave said this pile could only be better if there were eggs.

Ingredients:

8 to 10 medium leeks, washed, dark green tops cut off, and sliced into coins

6 tablespoons butter, divided

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Pinch of nutmeg

Salt, pepper

6-8 ounces chunks of pancetta

1¼ pounds green long pasta ribbons

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Method:

While the pasta water heats, brown pancetta until crisp in large skillet. Set aside in a large serving bowl. Add two tablespoons of the butter to the skillet. When melted, add leeks, parsley, nutmeg, salt and pepper and sauté until leeks pick up a golden color. Remove to the bowl with pancetta.

Cook pasta according to package directions; this kind often cooks extremely fast. Melt remaining butter in the pan. Add cream and half of the Parmesan. Stir in cooked pasta to coat. Add back in the leek-pancetta mixture and adjust seasonings if need be. Return to serving bowl and serve with the remaining cheese.

Added bonus: a mountain of leek tops to wash and put into broth.

Note: This paired really well with an Alexander Valley Vineyards Chardonnay that I picked up on sale. Usually I prefer Sauvignon blanc with food, but the mild creaminess of the chardonnay matched the dishes' flavors quite nicely.