Tuesday, April 28, 2020

Pasta with sun-dried tomato paste sauce


 

This recipe is so 2001. It's from a compendium of Food & Wine recipes for that year, but you don't necessarily need to have that date reference to pin down the food era. It dates from before carbs' fall from grace (well before pasta's recent resurgence), and capers and sun-dried tomato paste in a cream sauce are definitely of that time palate. But I haven't made this particular recipe before, so it's technically newish to me.


Pasta with sun-dried tomatoes
Adapted from Food & Wine magazine's 2001 Cookbook  At $4.70 in hardcover, it's now cheaper than the subscription was.

Ingredients
1 pound short pasta (fusilli or penne would be good candidates)
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
⅓ cup sun-dried tomato paste
1 tablespoon capers
¼ cup white wine
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for garnish
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Method
Cook pasta to al dente. Drain, reserving cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a large deep skillet. Add garlic, cooking just until fragrant. Add tomato paste, capers and wine. Stir and cook 1 minute. Stir in cream and Gorgonzola. Cook for a few minutes until cheese melts.

Stir in cooked pasta into sauce and toss to coat. Add pasta cooking liquid as needed to make desired sauce consistency. Stir in 6 tablespoons Parmesan and the parsley. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed. Serve garnished with more Parmesan.

Rating: There's nothing wrong with a creamy tomato sauce, and the capers and Gorgonzola give it some extra tang. I'd make it again if that's what was in my pantry and refrigerator, which is what led me down this road. 

Friday, April 24, 2020

Beer garden food: Pickle dip and horseradish deviled eggs






Last year I ran across a book about German beer gardens, which sounded like a truly wonderful institution to me: You get to bring your own picnic and then you buy the local beer to go with it. Perfect for someone like me.


I thought, if only we could have those here. And then I realized, we actually sort of do. Those super small taproom operations that don't offer food but let you bring your own are really the same concept. Which is funny, because when I first encountered taprooms without food I was somehow not in favor, not realizing the possibilities, and also not knowing if people actually really did bring their own food or just go to the food truck du jour.   

Then we realized that we could actually walk to Venn Brewing. It's a bit of a trek, but then you can just walk it off on the way home. And yes, people did indeed bring their food and there were picnic tables. Eureka: a beer garden.

That discovery had me scouting out recipes that would make good beer garden fodder, and these two made the cut. Sadly, now Venn is closed at the moment, but someday we can hope all our beer brewing establishments can safely reopen.

In the meantime, many local breweries are delivering or offering curbside pickup. You can find a list here. Prost.


Janet’s Mom’s Dill Pickle Dip
From "Season: A Year of Wine CountryFood" by Justin Wangler. You might expect something fancier-pants from a cookbook about wine country, but this plays well in beer land, too.

Ingredients
1½ cups firmly packed, finely grated and well-drained dill pickles
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
¾ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
2 teaspoons powdered ranch seasoning mix
Potato chips for dipping

Method
Use a box grater to grate pickles. Drain on paper towels.
Mix all ingredients (except chips). Chill. Tastes best if made a day ahead, and it keeps well.

Rating: Like most non-high-brow bar food, really, really tasty and fairly addictive. We used a really tasty pickle from Hazelwood Creek via the Midtown Farmers Market, and I suspect the quality of the pickle really makes a difference here.  Good with chips, but also made a killer bread spread for BLT sandwiches. Definitely a recipe to pull out for those of us who might over-supply ourselves with refrigerator pickles in the summer and need to use them up before putting up the next year's crop.




This next recipe started life as deconstructed deviled eggs, or “undeviled.” The horseradish mixture just got drizzled over the top as a dressing and then the whole mess was anointed with herbs. It was fine, and certainly less fussy then actually mixing the yoke with the dressing. But I found myself thinking that it would actually be much tastier with the dressing incorporated with the cooked yokes. So I tried it again, deviling the eggs

 Undeviled eggs with herbs and horseradish
Adapted from "Season: A Year of Wine CountryFood" by Justin Wangler

Ingredients
8 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced in half
¼ cup neutral flavored oil
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
1 ½ tablespoons Champagne vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Zest of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
2 green onions, thinly sliced
½ cup assorted herb leaves

Method 1
Mix oil, horseradish, vinegar and mustard together. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Drizzle over eggs. Sprinkle with lemon zest and fresh herbs.

Method 2
Mix  oil, horseradish, vinegar, mustard and lemon zest together. Season with salt and pepper. Remove egg yokes from eggs and place in a bowl. Mix in dressing until you achieve desired consistency (I ended up with a bit leftover). Fill egg whites with egg yolk mixture. Garnish with chives (I skipped the abundance of herbs).

Rating: Fine enough undeviled, but it's not particularly looky. Inhalable as filled deviled eggs.

Friday, April 17, 2020

Spinach feta dip with dill


 

Super fast, tasty, versatile and made with ingredients I'm likely to have on hand. What's not to like?

Spinach feta dip with dill
From EatingWell. They specified reduced-fat versions of the dairy products, naturally.

Ingredients
2 cups chopped fresh spinach
¾ cup crumbled feta
½ cup sour cream
½ cup fresh dill sprigs
2 ounces cream cheese
1 garlic clove, grated
½ teaspoon ground pepper

Method
Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth.

Rating: This worked fine as a dip for veggies and later as a sandwich spread. The feta and dill combo gives it a nice tang. It helps fill that "green" quotient in any array of dips without having shreds of spinach to get stuck in teeth. I'd definitely consider making it again, particularly when there's an impromptu gathering.

Wednesday, April 15, 2020

Rosemary olive oil sourdough bread and French sourdough


Meet Popine.

While the country's bakers vainly scour the shelves for yeast products, sourdough starters are enjoying a renewed interest and become fodder for news outlets telling people what to do with their new found free time. (Still hoping to find some of that free time ...)

It's clearly time to at long last introduce Popine, my resident sourdough starter and the namesake for this blog all these many years. First, a disclaimer: She arrived in this country already anthropomorphized, so I'm not responsible for that, merely her upkeep. I started my sourdough adventure more than a dozen years ago when my friend Amy shared a split of a sourdough starter alleged to have been in the same family of French bakers for many, many generations. It somehow came courtesy of an Utne Reader connection, where you can read about her origins.

While I'm sure Popine has morphed over the years to reflect her Minneapolis home, she still retains a French accent. Oddly enough, the best thing to do with Popine is make a loaf of French bread. She has a mild sourdough tang, and has a very nice crumb, both in baguette form or in the rosemary olive oil bread. Her main form of exercise is pizza crusts, in which form she has fed us countless times. The rest of the time she lives in her special blue-and-white crock in the back of my downstairs refrigerator, patiently sheltering in place.

This is one of my first attempts at making this bread with a different type of flour, Sunrise Flour Mill's Heritage Bread Blend. Going to take some experimentation to get the right crust, but that's part of the sourdough adventure.
 


Rosemary Olive Oil Sourdough

Ingredients
2¾ cup flour
¾ cup water
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup sourdough starter (7 ounces by weight)
1 teaspoon salt
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves

Method
Put flour in a large glass bowl. Add water and olive oil to sourdough starter. Stir into flour mixture and mix by hand for 2 minutes, until flour is incorporated. You’re not trying to achieve a smooth dough yet at this point. Cover and let rest for 30 minutes.

Knead in salt until dough is smooth, supple and slightly tacky. You don’t want to add more flour if you don’t have to, but if it’s hopelessly sticky, sprinkle on a bit so you can work with it. This isn’t one of those doughs that miraculously becomes less sticky later, in my experience. Knead in rosemary until evenly distributed. 

Place dough in greased bowl. Cover and let rise for two hours, folding dough over once half way through. (At this point, I sometimes put the tightly covered bowl of dough in the refrigerator overnight before its next rise.)

Shape dough into a ball and place on a floured surface. Cover and let rise for 2 hours or more.
One hour before baking, preheat oven to 450 and place baking stone in the oven, placing rack high enough that you’ll be able to slide a pan full of water onto the rack below it later. When ready to bake, turn the dough onto a baker’s peel or parchment paper sprinkled with corn meal. Slide onto baking stone. Place a pan mostly filled with boiling water onto the lower rack to help steam the loaf. Bake for 40 minutes or until golden, opening oven door briefly half way through to let steam escape.

Note: I cut the original recipe in half, because most of the time I make this I bake a single loaf in a stone cloche instead of on a baking stone (letting the dough do its final rise in the cloche and skipping the water in the pan step). But you can double the recipe above; just divide the dough in half right before the final rise. The recipe calls for making the final rise in proofing baskets, but oddly enough that’s one baking gadget I don’t own.

Rating: Just wonderful. While like all bread, it’s fantastic with butter fresh from the oven, it’s also a really good keeper. This makes wonderful toast and slices thinly enough to make sandwiches.

 


French style bread
Adapted from “Classic Sourdoughs” by Ed Wood. Note that this one requires working ahead, but your timing is flexible.

Ingredients
2 cups of sourdough starter that’s been fed fairly recently, not just straight from the refrigerator
4 ¾ cup flour, divided
1¼ cups water, divided
1 teaspoon salt

Method
Combine starter with 1 cup of flour and ¼ cup of water. Cover lightly and let sit for 12 hours at room temperature, or you can speed it up a bit if you’ve got a warmer spot, like a gas oven with just the pilot light, which can cut the proofing time in half. 

Add 1 cup flour and ¼ cup of the water. Proof covered for another 8 hours.

Now for the active bit: Punch down the dough. Dissolve salt in remaining ¾ cup of water. Add to dough and mix well. Mix in 1¾ cup flour. When it’s too stiff to stir, transfer to a floured board and knead in remaining cup of flour.

Divide dough in half. Form into two long French loaves and place in French bread loaf pans. Cover with a soft towel and let rise until the dough rises about 1 inch above the pan sides, 2½ to 3 hours. (If you let it rise too much you’re going to have bread loaves that look like they have muffin tops.)

Preheat oven to 375. Bake loaves for 40 to 45 minutes, spritzing loaves and the oven with a mist of water at the start and twice more at five-minute intervals. Remove loaves from pans and let cool on wire racks.

 

Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Lemon pecan dainties, now with chocolate!




Happiness is finding a roll of unbaked cookie dough in your freezer. It's very much like Christmas in April. I also had a small bit of chocolate dipping mixture leftover from making cranberry cat kisses at the holidays. So why not both?

It might be sacrilege, since these are one of those set-in-stone family cookies. I suspect they spring from my mother's 1950s vintage Better Homes & Gardens New Cook Book.

Lemon pecan dainties

Ingredients
½ cup shortening
1 cup sugar
1 beaten egg
1 tablespoon lemon juice (best if fresh)
1 tablespoon grated lemon peel
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Dash of salt
1 cup chopped pecans

Method
Cream sugar and shortening. Add egg, lemon juice and peel. Mix dry ingredients and add to creamed mixture. Stir in nuts. Shape into rolls and wrap in plastic wrap or waxed paper. Chill (or freeze and thaw in the refrigerator when ready to use). Slice nearly a quarter-inch thick. Bake on greased sheet (or parchment paper-lined sheet) for 12 to 15 minutes at 350. (Get them out of the oven before they brown; they'll set up a bit after you remove them from the oven.)

Optional garnish: If you want to add a chocolate garnish, melt ½ cup semisweet chocolate chips and 1 tablespoon shortening in the top of a double boiler. Spoon a small dollop in the middle of each cookie and let cool to set up.

It really doesn't hurt the flavor to add chocolate. It probably also makes kids more likely to eat them, since otherwise they are kind of a grownup cookie. Maybe next year I'll try one roll of dough with garnish and one without. Assuming we get to have Christmas this year.